11: CONCERNING THE POLICE FORCE AND OTHER PERSONNEL GROUPS

CHAPTER 11

CONCERNING THE POLICE FORCE AND OTHER PERSONNEL GROUPS

In the first place it is very essential that we pay tribute to the B.S.A. Police Force for the great part they have played in the advancement of Manicaland. Their dauntless spirit and fearless acceptance of stressful periods have helped our land through times of adversity.

All this has stood them in good stead, and the Rhodesian community has always regarded the Force with great respect. Their competence undoubtedly emanates from discipline and the desire to preserve the tradition of the renowned B.S.A. Police Force.

Let us consider the formation of the B.S.A. Police. In 1889 when the newly formed B.S.A. Company came into existence, six hundred men were enlisted on a military basis for the protection of civilians under Lieutenant Colonel Pennefather. These men eventually became the nucleus of the Force. The first records published in the Official Year Book on the Colony of Southern Rhodesia offers the following . information as regards Manicaland during the period. 1924 - 1928.

There were two officers in the District Police of Umtali, nine N.C.O's, eighteen troopers and sixty six African Police. The town police had one officer, eight N.C.O's and twenty troopers and constables and thirty eight African Police. The Criminal Investigation Department for the whole of Rhodesia had four officers, twenty seven N.C.O's, six detectives, and forty one African Police. The rate of pay for First Class Warrant Officers on application was three hundred and eighty five pounds per annum. After three years, four hundred pounds prr annum. Second Class Warrant Officers three hundred and sixty pounds to three hundred and seventy five pounds per annum! A Sergeant-Major received three hundred and thirty six to three hundred and fifty pounds per annum, Sergeants three hundred to three hundred and fifty pounds per annum, Corporals two hundred and sixty to two hundred and eighty' pounds per annum and Troopers one hundred and fifty pounds, for the first year, one hundred and sixty eight pounds for the second year and after ten years two hundred and forty pounds per annum.

Apart from what has already been written about the B.S.A. Police, in its early stages and its outstanding contribution towards the making of the country of ours, I must say a little more about the B.S.A. Police's unbroken record of devoted service.

In 1896 Philip George Stockley became Sub-Inspector of Umtali District, while Randolph Nesbitt V.C. .became Inspector of Melsetter District, and on 17th December 1896 he became Inspector and took over command of troops in Umtali. However, Inspector Stockley was a keen sportsman, and he appears in a photograph of old Umtali cricketers of 1895. He was then a Lieutenant. Previous to this there seems to be no record of those in command in the early days. It was early in 1896 that we hear of the police having to deal with an unusual incident. A Hottentot named William Kuba, fraudulently collected tax money from the Africans in the Inyanga District, for which he was issuing written receipts. As he was known to be armed, it was feared he would resist arrest. A detachment of police led by Inspector John de Gray Birch was sent out to arrest him, and tho Native Commissioner,

Page 65

Mr. T.B. Hulley who was well acquainted with the district, also accompanied the party from Umtali. The rivers were in flood and the only method of crossing them was to swim over, alongside one's horse. However, de Gray Birch could not swim, and when the detachment arrived at the Odzani, a very formidable and swift running river when in spate, he determined, as he was in charge, to get to the opposite bank. After the party was secure on the other side all the bridles were joined together and de Gray Birch was tied round the waist to the end of the improvised rope, and was pulled across. This was managed with difficulty as in the process of being dragged, the party pulling at the opposite end had to run down the bank whilst doing it. Unfortunately, they ran into trouble as there was a tributary in their way and they fell into it. When all had recovered they grabbed hold of the reins once more and started pulling. De Gray Birch was still attached to the other end! He was eventually landed on the opposite bank, half drowned and in need of artificial respiration. Eventually, after reaching Inyanga, William Kuba's movements were secretly and suspiciously watched until one night the hut in which he lived was surrounded in the early hours of the morning when Mr. Hulley entered the hut alone and found William asleep with a loaded rifle and revolver next to him. Mr. Hulley drew his own revolver and said Come along William, we want you" and William replied, "Good God. Bassie, is dat you?" It transpired that William had been a farm hand on a farm near Grahamstown where Mr. Hulley had spent a good deal of his boyhood. Also, Mr. Hulley had taught William to read and write. This, unfortunately, enabled him to issue receipts for his illicit tax collection. He had hidden all the money and refused to reveal the hiding place.

He was sentenced to fifteen years imprisonment at the Cape Town breakwater gaol, but during the bubonic plague outbreak in 1902 he did such good work, that he was reprieved. Later it was learnt that he was once again in the Umtali district and the Magistrate's Court interpreter, Tom Dhliamini was detached to ply William with drink at to tell where he had hidden the money. Tom Dhliamini , after an absence of three days, appeared with a terrific hangover and ruefully admitted that Williams head was stronger than his own! Needless to say, by that time William Kuba had disappeared and he was not heard of again.

There is no doubt that during the rainy season as there no bridges, the police faced great difficulties when on patrols. The OC's insisted that the horses received every care. One trooper remarked that the powers that be were more concerned about their horses than they were of the men. The orders were that should a horse die through illness or drowning, or through an accident while on patrol, a detailed report was necessary and with the report must be the horse's hoof cut off from the animal, bearing its number which was branded on the hooves of all police horses.

On one occasion a trooper ran into difficulties whilst crossing a river in spate. On arrival at the river he was determined to fulfil his duties and get to the other side spick and span, so he undressed and after regulating the bridle and after crossing his stirrups and placing them over the saddle, tied his clothes on top. His horse first refused to plunge into the raging water, but after giving him a rap over the buttocks the horse jumped in and made for the opposite bank. The trooper, being a good swimmer, followed.

Page 66

Unfortunately for him, when he got across the horse refused to have anything to do with him, and whenever he approached the animal simply, put his head down and trotted off. The trooper was in a predicament, as not far off was the homestead he had been ordered to visit, and find out if the owner had any complaints to make. However, the young policeman, being a resourceful person, made for the bush whilst the horse, seeing the homestead in sight, trotted off in its direction. The trooper pulled off a few branches of greenery from the shrubs and with the aid of some pliable bark made himself a rough kilt.

When he knocked at the door the farmer's wife opened it and on seeing the ludicrous figure, gasped and shouted for her husband. He had managed to catch the horse in his back yard and seeing the uniform tied on the saddle he was alarmed and concluded the rider had been drowned. One can imagine his relief on seeing the harassed visitor at his front door. In fits of laughter, realising what had taken place, he opened wide the door, confronting the half-naked young man with the query, "Any complaints to make?"

It was very unusual for the District Police to travel on their own. They were allotted posts in the main centres and in remote areas usually a sergeant in charge with two or three troopers under him, and their half a dozen or so African police. Some of these distant posts were very inaccessible, especially in the rainy season, and right off the beaten tracks. When making patrols from their stations they travelled on horseback in single file, mainly along paths with a donkey or two following after them laden with their paraphernalia, and two or three African police on foot. At one time police horsesbecame scarce owing to horse sickness, and mules had to be used. One of the police members considered himself degraded as he was a noted horseman and immediately protested and wrote to his Commanding Officer. Finally he received a reply, which stated: "Do you realise that a Greater Man than you once rode a donkey?".

The police visited remote spots down the Sabi Valley and into Native Reserves where no white people had ever been before, and very often found native kraals unoccupied. The natives had ample time to hear of the approaching patrol and had, therefore, vanished into the hills, awaiting the departure of the intruders. However, in time the Africans gradually learnt that the police were there to protect them, and were not a threat to their way of life.

Whilst on patrol the farmers gave the police patrols shelter and assisted them in every way possible. On one occasion the police had to go round and summon farmers to appear in Court, a very unpleasant job for them. The reason for this was that the farmers refused to comply with Government regulations whereby farmers were obliged to pay to the Government a percentage of the African wages. This order was very distasteful to them, and they were determined to resist it with all their might. They immediately decided on 'passive resistance' as a method. The result was that the farmers were brought to justice and were convicted. Although the Magistrates were lenient and fines were at a minimum, the farmers refused to pay, and were convicted and sent to gaol for short periods. But the women were more affected than the men, and with tears in .their eyes, could not resist backing up their husbands. It all ended in a fiasco and the farmers got their way.

Before proceeding further lot us consider the police and their duties when New Umtali came into being. During the building of the

Page 67

Umtali-Beira railway Mr. Varian describes a man named Mr. 0'Flahertywho attempted to shoot a lion from a station shack, using goat as bait placed at the entrance gate. When it was Mr. Varian's turn to take shift he dozed, and when he awoke the lion had taken the bait and gone, much to Mr. 0'Flaherty's annoyance. However, afterwards, Mr. O'Flaherty left the railway and became warden of the Umtali Gaol. Never were prisoners so smart. He drilled and marched them in proper military formation, with shouldered picks and shovels. One side of the stream which bordered Umtali was being cleared for a park. The work was done with prison labour. Whilst engaged on this task an amusing incident took place. One afternoon after several months of unblemished record, at the end of the day's work there was no guard! He had taken far too much alcoholic drink. The two European prisoners in the party ordered the Africans to 'fall in' and marched them smartly back to the prison, carrying their warden with them! However, the Rev, Roxburgh took pity on the warden when he was out of a job and asked Mr. Varian to reinstate him. Fortunately Mr. Varian was able to do so and after this O'Flaherty never again defected from his duties.

In those early days in Umtali the police constables had weird responsibilities. For example, when Mr. Wood's sow and her litter spent the night in the gaol! Mr. Wood was obliged to walk to the Drill Hall to attend a Volunteer parade and found, on arrival there, that his sow and her litter of six had followed him It was too late to turn back and so he asked the police to look after them for the night. They obliged and locked them up in one of the cells.

Another responsibility was the ambulance. When an accident occurred, the ambulance was summoned immediately. This vehicle stood on the verandah outside the Charge Office. It boasted solid rubber tyres on its three high spoked wheels. Attached to the single front wheel was a long handle. The patient was placed in the stretcher and covered with a blanket. One policeman took the guiding handle attached to the front wheel, two other men, one on each side, did the pushing. The hospital was built on a kopje overlooking the town. This was supposed to be a safeguard against malaria, but proved uphill work for the police who were somewhat exhausted on arrival and willingly delivered their patient to the nurses.

A crime which occurred fairly frequently at that time was arson, when buildings were heavily insured. This usually happened at stores, and as the buildings were wood and iron with floor boards, they were very inflammable. In the case of' arson all that was required was paraffin, a few rags and a candle. The candle was lit under the floor boards with the rags around its base, then all you had to do was to get on your horse or in your cart and hurriedly make your departureand await results. On one occasion there was a rather naive individual unable to read or write, who owned a store some way out of Umtali. He pre-arranged that his African storekeeper sent him a telegram a day or so after he left. On receiving the telegram at the Post Office, he held it upside down and remarked in a loud anguished voice, "Good God,my store has been burned down". However, when the police investigated they found the store intact, and all his efforts to destroy the store had failed. The candle flame had blown out and prevented the rags from igniting] The result was that the owner was convicted. It was a serious crime and he was sent to gaol. This case more or less put a stop to arson.

Before ending this chapter lot us record notable characters and their activities which furthered advancement in the famous B.S.A. Police.

Page 68

As previously mentioned, George Stockley was the Sub-Inspector who was transferred from Old Umtali to New Umtali in 1896.

On the 29th November, 1896 the famous Randolph Cosby Nesbitt, who justly received the Victoria Cross whilst on the Mazoe Patrol, was transferred to Manicaland and stationed in Melsetter, but soon after that the authorities reconsidered their decision. It is recorded that he took over command of the troops in Umtali. He married Mary Susan Sanders, and in partnership with Mr. T.B. Hulley, the Native Commissioner and a Magistrate, bought a large portion of the Vumba then known as Scandinavia.

On 20th October, 1899 we first hear-of Sub-Inspector Cashel who was seconded from service with the Southern Rhodesian Volunteers to act as Adjutant and while so acting, held the rank of Captain. His next stop was when he was appointed District Superintendent in 1913. On the 24th November, 1914 he received further promotion and became Major R. Cashel and was appointed acting Camp Commandant, 2nd Rhodesia Contingent. He ended up his career as Lt. Col. R. Cashel and on his retirement, settled on a farm on the indirect route from Umtali to Melsetter, with magnificent mountain scenery, ample water and fertile valleys. This area was named after him.

The next personality we hear about is A.J. Tomlinson. He arrived in Rhodesia in 1894 as a trooper in Bechuanaland Border Police, He attested as a trooper in the Mashonaland Mounted Police in 1894. Their uniform in those days was a dark grey cord tunic and breaches with black field boot's and grey felt hat, the left-rim turned pp with a badge. In 1895 Tomlinson was unlucky and was involved in the Jameson Raid which we all know ended in disaster. In 1910 he was stationed in Umtali, and one day in September a telegram arrived asking him to command the B.S.A. Police, Coronation Contingent, at the Coronation of George V in 1911, which he did. The Rhodesian Herald described their uniform thus:' "Grey felt hat with brown puttees; the badge had a backing of red felt; blue tunics with gold chevrons. N.C.O's with gleaming, brown leather bandoliers, fawn riding breeches and white strapping's. Corporals and Troopers, white riding breaches; for Sergeants, W.O's and Officers blue puttees with bindings worn just above, black boots and spurs." The Contingent carried rifles and were described as very spectacular.

At the outbreak of the 1914 war Lt. Col. Tomlinson was in command of the First Rhodesian Native Regiment in East Africa. He was wounded when he was engaged by the enemy, and was outnumbered, and fought hard for over a week. In fact it was apparently touch and go as to whether he would heve to surrender or not. Eventually he was relieved by Col. Murray's column. After four months in hospital-in East Africa Lt. Col. Tomlinson was invalided home. He was greeted with admiration when his contingent arrived back and passed through to Salisbury. Lt. Col. Tomlinson, having previously returned to Salisbury, happened to be on the platform when the train arrived. He was immediately surrounded by a cheering crowd of returned comrades both black and white, a reception which can only be described as overwhelming.

Colonel Tomlinson was Acting Commissioner in command of the Defence Force from 1925 and in. 1926 he retired with the rank of Lieutenant Colonel.

Finally we must not forget the African B.S.A. Police members who served in. tho Force. They, like their comrades, did noble work and in many instances we hear of them performing outstanding and notable deeds.

Page 69

Special commendation was awarded to A. Det. Luke C.I.D., which he justly deserved. He arrested a desperate criminal who was armed with a knife with which he made repeated attempts to stab Det. Luke. Later the criminal attempted murder, and escaped from gaol but was shot dead whilst doing so.

Sgt. Zachariah, Umtali District, was commended for his bravery. He saved an African women from death or serious injury from the wheels of a moving train, underneath which she had fallen, from the Umtali Railway Station platform. With complete disregard for his own personal safety he shielded the woman with his own body until danger had passed.

An African, Sgt. Mudadi, Umtali District; one night a shot was fired through the window of a farm house, shattering the window and passing between two Europeans who were occupying the room. After initial enquiries Sgt. Mudadi and an African constable were left at the homestead as guards. About midnight, acting on a-report received, Sgt. Mudadi with his constable and the farmer who was in possession of a shotgun) went to an unoccupied cottage some distance from the homestead. On entering the cottage Sgt. Mudadi noticed by the light of a touch an African hiding under the bed, and that he was in possession of a gun. Sgt. Mudadi snatched the shotgun from the farmer and fired a shot at the legs of the intruder. The African was slightly injured and an immediate arrest was made. The criminal was subsequently convicted of shooting on that particular night, and also on six counts of housebreaking.

Then there was Sgt. Mamvura who was a member of a team investigating a case of murder at Lesapi Valley Farm, and was left alone, concealed in the hut of the accused, to await his possible return. The accused returned late that night and suspecting a trap, set fire to the grass roof of the hut. Sgt. Mamvura gave chase but as he did so the accused fired a metal tipped arrow at him and then ran off. The arrow hit Sgt. Mamvura who, after pulling it out, pursued the accused until pain and loss of blood from the wound caused him to collapse. The following day a police search party arrested the accused who was subsequently sentenced at High Court, Umtali to a long term of imprisonment for culpable homicide and assault to do grievous bodily harm. The brave deeds of the B.S.A. Police Force are numerous, and both white and black deserve special commendation or devotion to duty and great courage and efficiency. However, as much as one would like to continue reminiscing about all the past history of the notable B.S.A. Police Force, we must end here.

FORMATION OF POLICE FORCE 1899 under Lt. Col. Pennefather

Philip George Stockley: 1896
Major Brown, Command Communications: 29.12.96
Insp. Nesbitt, Command of Troops: 29.12.96
Sub-Inspector Cashel:
Capt. A.J. Tomlinson: 7. 9.06
Sub-Inspector H.J.K. Brereton. 22. 4.11
Capt. R.H. Idderdale: 21.11.14
Major J.S. Ingham: 13.12.20
Major G. Stops: 10. 9.22
Capt. C.E. Pitt-Schenkel:
Capt. R. Hamilton: 14. 7.30
Capt. H.T. Onyett, M.C.: 15. 4.31
Lt. H.G. Seward: 20. 5.35
Capt. J.M.V. Parr: 8. 6.35

End of Page 60

Page 70

Capt. F.C. Edwards, M.M.: 7.5.37
Capt. Surgey: 2.10.39
Capt.. 3.B. Lombard: 10.2.43
Supt.. E.S. Streeter: 23.10.43
Supt. B.G. Spurling: 20.11.43
T. Major R.F. Derham: 16.3.46
Capt. R.S, Col. 0'Greedy: 19.12.48
Lt. S.E. Collins: 13.5.49
Capt.C.W.H. Thatcher: 18.7.49
Lt. S.V. Brewer: 20.12.51
Capt. J.C. Payne: 1,9,53
Major H.M. Shewell: 13.5.54
Capt. V. .Flower, M.B.E.: 17.4.57
Chief Supt. Spink: 3.6.58
Supt. Gaitskell: 8.6.59
Chief Supt. Sherren: 30.6.61
Asst. Commissioner White: 1.1. 66
Asst. Commissioner L.3. Jouning: 7.7. 68
Chief Supt. D.H. Sanderson: 13.4.70
Asst., Commissioner J.W.G. Cannon D.F.S.: 20.5.70
Asst. Commissioner W.A.H. May: 7.4.71
Asst. Commissioner T.W. Egleton: 1.1.72

End of Chapter
Click Here To Return to Index

Recompiled, by Eddy Norris, from a copy of the booklet made available by Neill Storey. Thanks Neill.

The recompilation was done for no or intended financial gain but rather to record the memories of Rhodesia.

The family of the author have given permission for ORAFs to load this booklet onto the Internet.
Thanks top the family and special thanks to Heather Curran.

Thanks to
Paul Norris for the ISP sponsorship.
Paul Mroz for the image hosting sponsorship.
Robb Ellis for his assistance.

Should you wish to contact Eddy Norris please mail him orafs11@gmail.com

10: SCHOOLS

CHAPTER 10

SCHOOLS

As already recorded, during the very early days schools went hand in hand with the churches and missions.

In 1895, as previously mentioned, the first school was started in Manicaland by Miss Miles, later Mrs. Dick Tulloch. The population of the surrounding districts at that time was two hundred and seventy two men, thirty three women and thirty six children all under the age of twelve years. So Miss Miles' pupils numbered twelve and her school was started in a pole and dagga hut, not in the best stage of preservation, but with a coat of white-wash inside, a little extra thatch outside, and the low window draped with calico, it was made rather more presentable. There was a table, a chair for the teacher, and facing it was a trestle of boards fixed on planted poles which served as a desk.

The equipment consisted of two slates and exercise books made from trimmings left over from the Rhodesia Advertiser (later Umtali Post). A few suitable pictures taken from illustrated papers were tacked on the walls. Another interesting feature was the high stool and dunce cap, where the disgraced pupil had to sit and suffer at times. The author, one of Miss Miles pupils, remembers her as being an excellent and pleasing teacher. During a nature study lesson, on reaching a pool, a water frog made its appearance. Miss Miles, in her zeal to interest her young pupils, leaned over, too far and tumbled into the deep water! Her small pupils stood round and gaped at her with her long dress billowing on the surface of the water; their one concern was to know if her feet were touching the ground or not. However, she was soon rescued by an admirer of hers. Frank Hulley, who was one of Miss Miles' pupils, was disobedient one day and Miss Miles considered a large girl's hat was more suitable for the occasion than the dunce's cap which she tried to make Frank don. Rather than face humiliation he jumped out of the window and ran away!

So much for Miss Miles' first school. On arrival in New Umtali in early 1897 Mrs. Hugh Tulloch (Rosa St. Clair) lost no time in getting the next school started. This was at 52 Park Road, Darlington and as most of the pupils were her own children and relations, it was called Tulloch School. She was a born teacher; fair-minded, and a good disciplinarian. On the other hand , very kind, and went all out to help her pupils all she could. At this time Sir Robert Baden Powell's idea of Boy Scouts had not materialised and a small contingent had been formed by the above school which they named the Darlington Guards, which was operating in Umtali. This school was responsible for, the first youth football team being started. It had no captain - all the members of the team in a vote for captaincy had voted for themselves, so it was considered wise to leave the post of captain vacant! Many of tho pupils names are worth recording for future reference, such as Alistair Tulloch (Sandy Tulloch's son) the first white child born in Manicaland; Ewan Tulloch, who became the Chief Mining Engineer in Rhodesia; Ernest Tulloch (killed in the First World War) and recorded in the Roll of Honour in the Memorial Chapel in Umtali; Jack Tulloch murdered whilst managing a timber saw-mill); Frank Hulley P.N.C. who received the Imperial Service Order in 1948.

Page 62

It appears that towards the end of 1897, Umtali began to form the rail-head for the coming railway. It was then that the High Commissioner, Sir Alfred Milner, came out to review the present site and whilst in Umtali he interviewed Miss Miles. As a result, he promised her a grant for furniture, tables and forms for individual pupils. These forms were so highly polished when they arrived that the pupils took a delight in sliding down them, much to Miss Miles horror. The school moved from Old Umtali to the present site and the Government made available a wood and iron office which was also moved from the old site. This consisted of a large school room, which was erected near Kopje House (the Hospital). The pupils numbered twenty seven and the parents paid twenty one shillings a term as school fees. When Miss Miles married Mr. Dick Tulloch in 1898 she retired. After her departure, her sister-in-law, Mrs. Player Miles, took1 over and taught the children until late 1898, when the Methodist Episcopal Church opened its school as previously related. In the same year it is recorded that a meeting was held in the Court House, Major Scott Turner taking the chair. It was agreed to use the corner of Government buildings for a school. This had two names - Umtali Public School and the Academy, and the Rev. Ehnes was head, assisted by his wife, soon after their arrival from America. He started work in 1900 and had considerable difficulty in arranging the school owing to the delay and loss of books on the way. He and his wife and Mrs. Hugh Tulloch were responsible for the first school concert.

Owing to illness, the Rev. Ehnes was unable to continue and a new head, Rev. Amory Beetham, replaced him in 1901. In the same year the school vacated its present site which was rented at one hundred and fifty pounds per annum, owing to the increase of pupils to forty eight (as previously mentioned).

The unfinished Goldfields Hotel at the corner of Second Street and D Avenue was taken over, by the school, and named Umtali Academy. It was a double storey building and well suited for school facilities. Mrs. Hugh Tulloch was reported to be at her desk every day, and received special mention by Mr. Duthie, then a supervising inspector, later Director of Education. By 1904 Umtali Academy was no longer the only school. Mrs. Hugh Tulloch left the Academy to assist Rev. Arthur Robins, of the Anglican Order to start St. John's Public School. The reason for starting a new school was that the parents were not satisfied with the standard of teaching at the Academy.

The Rev. Robins was a strict disciplinarian, an actor, and had he lived today, would have been at home with modern methods of teaching. Many old Umtalians of today still remember the excellent school plays he produced including the ostumes and the decor. Rev. Robins, when he entered the class, had a clicker. At the first click the pupils would respectfully stand up and say good morning to him, and on the second click the good morning was to Mrs. Tulloch.
During physical exercises first thing in the morning, all was conducted by the sound of the clicker, each click denoting the order and timing of the exercises, without a word being spoken. When the exercise was not in order, then the company was severely rebuked.

The Government, when they heard that Rhodes Trustees had given one hundred pounds towards a public school, considered this was not in order and opposed it. However, in spite of Government opposition, the Church of England school progressed, the reason being that all denominations were included.

Page 63

It was in 1908 that the Church of England public school and the Academy Public school amalgamated, to the annoyance of many of the pupils1 parents, Mr. Garner, who had had a most brilliant University career, arrived. He seemed the ideal person to weather the storms brewing at the time, and was elected Headmaster. Many old Umtali residents will remember him. He was Irish and had a quick temper and made full use of the cane for all purposes. On one occasion, when his pupils were lined up before him, one pupil gave a ridiculous answer to his question. He immediately whipped out his cane and struck him. In so doing, the point of Mr. Garner's cane hit another pupil in the eye and blood flowed. He was so overcome with horror that he fainted. The pupil concerned went to see Dr. Craven and after a stitch or two recovered, but Mr. Garner had learned his lesson - not to be so hasty. Mrs. Tulloch was retained and continued her career as a teacher and the Rev. Robins retired. The school had one hundred and seventeen pupils in various standards. The teachers were as follows:

Mr. Garner, Head; Mr. Taylor., Mrs. Tulloch, Miss Blezard and Miss Nesbitt (daughter of Sally Nesbitt) and -from there onwards the schools increased rapidly. In 1910 the Old Umtali Academy was in a dilapidated condition and proved unsafe. One pupil, now Mrs. Parkin, had the misfortune of falling through the rotten floor boards of the music room. So the School Advisory Committee condemned tho building. A new site near the Market Square was selected, and eventually a new school was erected. Owing to the rapid expansion of the school the Masonic Lodge was hired for five pounds per month. In 1913 Mr. Sutherland, a bachelor and known as a dour Scot, skilfully guided the school through the First World War, a war that eventually took a great toll of many -of the students.

I would like to continue further with the history of the schools but time and space are running out. Unfortunately, in the early stages, small communities were scattered far apart in Manicaland and other provinces of Rhodesia. Many parents thus found it impossible to send their children to schools and had to undertake the education of their children themselves - a noble effort. However, when Correspondence Courses were started by the Government this was a great blessing to the community.

Today the schools which have grown from small beginnings into large educational establishments are woven into the very fabric of our lives. Those noble Headmasters who assisted in the great progress of the schools deserve that their names should be preserved in the history of our lands:

Mr. W. Garner, B.A. (Int) RUI, 1909 - 1912
Mr.. J.G. Sutherland, M.A., F.G.S., FR MET C., U.H.S., 1913 - 1921
Mr. H.G. Livingston, M.A., M.C., U.H.S., 1922 - 1929
Mr. B.B. Hill, B.A., M.C., C.B.E., U.H.S., 1931 - 1947
Mr. A.D. Gledhill, M.A., U.H.S. 1949 - 1953. U.B.H.S. 1954 - 1955
Mr. K.M. Fleming, B.A. Dip Ed., U.B.H.S., 1956 - 1971
Miss M. McLaughlin, B.Sc., U.G.H.S., 1954 - 1958
Miss E.M. Clark, B.A. Dip. Ed., U.G.H.S., 1958 - 1977.

End of Chapter

Click Here To Return to Index

Recompiled, by Eddy Norris, from a copy of the booklet made available by Neill Storey. Thanks Neill.

The recompilation was done for no or intended financial gain but rather to record the memories of Rhodesia.

The family of the author have given permission for ORAFs to load this booklet onto the Internet.
Thanks top the family and special thanks to Heather Curran.

Thanks to
Paul Norris for the ISP sponsorship.
Paul Mroz for the image hosting sponsorship.
Robb Ellis for his assistance.

Should you wish to contact Eddy Norris please mail him orafs11@gmail.com

7: THE DUST SETTLES DOWN

Page 43

CHAPTER 7

THE DUST SETTLES DOWN

The Moodie trek began in 1892 and in the same year, on the 10th August, the Beira Railway contract was signed. This naturally caused a stir in Manicaland as at last there were definite signs that the railroad would one day reach Old Umtali. Hopes were raised and interest was revived in the empty site witch was being reserved for a station. All looked forward to that happy day when the first train would arrive at this station.

This would bring the settlers many of the amenities of life which they longed for. A year later things seemed to have developed more rapidly as seventy five miles of the first section of the line from Beira was completed and actually opened for traffic. This section was fairly simple, as the narrow-gauge from Fontesville to Chimoio was replaced by the standard width. Another advancement and a sign of the times was that telephone communications were now expanding and Old Umtali was connected up to Salisbury. On,the other side of the coin, trouble was brewing and there were very serious signs of unrest among the Africans which could not be overlooked, and would no doubt have considerable impact on succeeding events. Added to this, and further to complicate matters further the dreaded disease rinderpest had broken out in Manicaland. As the country depended entirely on ox transport, it was thrown into chaos and confusion as animals were drying rapidly and in many instances wagons., with all the belongings on board, were left stranded. Not only was this devastation as far as cattle were concerned, but rinderpest swept through Africa taking its full toll of wild life as well.

Buffaloes were especially herd hit. The large herds of game, on what is now known as the Gorongoza game reserve, and the surrounding country suffered greatly. A large herd of buffalo numbering several thousand was reduced to about a hundred! These animals kept to the thick bush during the day and only came out to graze at night. Large herds of other animals also suffered great losses.

Those seven eventful years from the time of the occupation were now over and the dust from the rebellion was beginning to settle. The population of Manicaland, after their upheaval and anxiety, had settled down and had resumed life from where it had been interrupted, determined to make a success in this new country.

The roads were open once more and although still being hampered by the lack of transport owing to the rinderpest, Zeederberg's coaches mare on the move again. A number of those stranded in the Salisbury laager, especially women and children, were able to return to Umtali.

Following Earl Grey, who took over the position of Administrator from Jameson (after his unsuccessful raid), was Sir W.H. Milton, This was in 1901.

Now people's minds returned once more to the railway and Rhodes had already given orders for the railway to be built from Beira to Manicaland, and promised that this would pass through Umtali where a station site had been selected.

Page 44

Naturally around this area stands were in great demand and quite a number taken up. The railway was gradually creeping up from Portuguese East Africa to Manicaland at a tremendous toll of human and animal life. Hundreds of European, Indians, Africans and animals had died from fever and tsetse fly, and from every conceivable disease. Umtalians were profoundly interested in the progress of the railway for it could solve many of their problems. It would bring civilization; they would no longer have to manage with barest necessities, making do with packing case furniture and living in primitive conditions. At the moment it was somewhat of a problem as far as Umtali was concerned, as an inadequate hospital had to deal with many urgent cases coming from the lowveld, whilst the railway was being built.

Rhodes periodically visited Umtali. As we know he was very fond of seclusion, and his attention was drawn to Inyanga. It was in 1892 that D. Mc Adam explored Inyanga district, and was so impressed that in 1892 he returned with a party of Umtali men. They all pegged farms. In 1895 George Pauling, then in charge of public works, made roads to give access to these farms. Lieutenant Cripps had already beaconed 'Cloudlands' in 1894 in his capacity of Manager of Manhattan Syndicate of Mashonaland. He was granted titles to nine farms in the Inyanga district.

The Dutch settlement in Inyanga began in 1897. Doornhoek was granted to C.V. Strydon, Floknek to R. Botha and Summerhoek to R. Bekker.

Rhodes visited Inyanga in 1896 and was very impressed with the country. He visited J.C. McDowell in order to purchase one hundred thousand acres, which became two most notable farms comprising Rhodes Inyanga Estate. Rhodes loved Inyanga. The area was a continuing favourite with him. He must have revelled in the horizon wide vistas of mountains, green forests and: plains, and the clear pure air. After reclining in his. armchair for long hours, planning the future of this country named after him, Rhodes would stroll along winding footpaths where the mountains gave birth to a thousand streamlets which combined to form rushing rivers cascading into deep valleys.

Men lived here long, long ago, and over many square miles are the ruins marking an occupation that commenced about two thousand years ago. The name, Inyanga is said to come from Nyanga, meaning 'horns' because the old witch doctor who once lived in the area was distinguished by his necklace which he used for fortune telling. This consisted of small horns and hakatas which he always wore.

Rhodes established two orchards himself. His house, stables and sheds to accommodate his carts, wagons and farm machinery were all built of stone, and remain to this day.

From 1896 Inyanga was the headquarters of E Troop, who were in charge of this district, guarding the construction of the Trans Continental Telegraph line which kept Rhodes informed when away from headquarters. This line linked up Salisbury to Inyanga, and was being continued to Tete. In the quiet of Inyanga, Rhodes planned one of his most ambitious projects - the possibility of a railway line to Rhodesia. He realised it was impractical to bring the railway nine miles out-of its way through mountainous country to the site of the Old Umtali Township.

Page 45

March 1896 was a milestone in the. history of Umtali, for on the 26th of that month Rhodes, whilst camping, in Umtali with J. Grimmer and with faithful Tony the cook, called a meeting, much to the surprise of the inhabitants, as usually he was loath to take part in such functions. It was a well represented meeting, and before the gathering he disclosed the pros-and cons regarding the cost of bringing the line to the Township. As already stated, the mountains were the great handicap. So it was essential to take the line through the valley over the Nemashira range in a north-westerly direction from what is known as the top of Leslies. This was the line to reach a point on the Odzi River where a bridge could be constructed. To divert the railway from the main line and bring it to the Old Umtali township would have entailed an extra distance of twenty four miles. The extra cost would have amounted to practically four thousand five hundred, pounds-per mile, i.e. one hundred and eighty thousand pounds as this twenty four miles necessitated going over Christmas Pass and would have included a tunnels too much for a struggling community.

Therefore, it was proposed to move the Old Umtali Township to a suitable site on the direct line to the Odzi River. This new township was to be a replica of the Old Umtali, so that all present owners of stands would have a corresponding position in the new township, and also that sufficient commonage and water would be available. Other considerations being that valuations had to be made of the existing buildings, and the owners of' the houses had to be approached about the proposed pay-out for their properties, otherwise the British South Africa Company would-have erected similar buildings in the new township.

The Government then promised to build Government buildings and hospitals in the new township, and provide a sum not exceeding three thousand pounds for a water supply. Even so, after purchasing farms from the farmers, land necessary for the town commonage and water rights, if any, assuming such amounts were fifty six thousand pounds, the sum was more than covered by the construction of the railway line direct to the Odzi.

Rhodes commented, after having visited the site selected for the new township by the Site Selection Committees "I .went over them and considered them unsuitable, it being in my opinion unhealthy, and as the health bf the public who would live in the area is most important, I propose the site on the Sable Valley farm which is, in my opinion, one of the healthiest spots that could be chosen in the neighbourhood. So the proposition was put to the residents, who had no alternative but to conform. A few of them who had recently built their houses were now compelled to pull them down again and transport them to the new town, and were not enthusiastic about the new site. Others realised that the proposals would benefit them and that the railway was the main factor.

Mr. Rhodes, having clarified most matters, interviewed everyone who had a problem. When the meeting was concluded the majority appeared to be satisfied, although the few dissidents were still vocal. After gathering' at their various meeting places, mainly the hotels, discussions continued into the early hours of the morning!

Not long after this the old town looked forsaken and derelict, with roofless buildings lacking doors and windows. Clouds of dust rose from wagons ladened with wood, iron and household goods making their way towards the steep gradients of the Christmas Pass.

Page 46

The settlers, had to contend with hazardous roads before reaching the new site, and on arriving, buildings of every conceivable size and shape were already being constructed, and irregularly spaced along each side of Main Street. Any old piece of iron, wood and timber went into the buildings. Wattle and daub with thatched roofs were most prominent, as these materials were easily obtainable. But there was no doubt that the population of some one hundred and fifty Europeans was getting down to it. Their stands having been allotted to them, they had no intention of sitting down and complaining, waiting for the completion of the railway to bring them materials. The inhabitants made the best of what was to hand. They were so occupied with their own interests that they scarcely noticed new arrivals, and they were greeted with only an occasional wave of the hand.

All amenities such as water, lights etc, had to be considered and the first Sanitary Board meeting was held in September 1897under the chairmanship of Major Scott-Turner, where it was noted that: "H.R. Fairbridge who owned twenty acres, Mr. Cripps ten acres, Messrs. Snodgrass and Mitchell one morgen, would be reimbursed".

No such grant should be located anywhere within one and a half miles of the township. And on June 15th 1897 it was resolved: "That Main Street retain its former name, 4th Street became Queen Street, 2nd Street became Victoria Street, 3rd Street became Rhodes Street, 5th Street became Park Street. That the streets laid out above the Railway reserve be named: Railway Street, main Street, Turner Street, Jameson Street, and that the residential plots in the south of the town be collectively named Darlington". The first suburb Darlington originally belonged to the Bulawayo Estates and Trust Company and the land was expropriated. As regards water supply, Mr. Tulloch reported that an expert was on his way from California. Minimum ten acre plots were granted for three years, provided they did not interfere with the flow of water.

Hastily constructed buildings necessary to the administration of the town were speedily erected. Those included the office of the Civil Commissioner and Magistrate.. A photograph shows a small thatched hut, beside it a building of wood and iron. This was the Civil Commissioner's office. Other buildings of wood and iron were Mrs. Hayne's tearoom, Corderoy & Reynolds Store, more elaborate, but also of wood and iron. The Cecil Hotel was a plain block building without a verandah, constructed of wood and iron, the front portion being a bar. The adjoining rooms behind consisted of two or three bedrooms with a small iron shelter for the manager. A year later a more elaborate hotel was built - a double storey of brick, with an iron roof. There was the King's Arms Hotel, which afterwards became the Academy School and the first boarding school in Manicaland.

Rhodes had promised that the railway station would be erected in what was known as Orange Grove, due east of Main Street adjacent to the Park, more conveniently a quarter of a mile from the Government buildings, thus being accessible, but owing to engineering difficulties this was not carried out. The station was erected a mile further down the Park Road.

A number of other important buildings were started in 1897. Foremost of these was Adams Hotel in which Rhodes took a great interest, and agreed that the Public Works Department should superintend the building of it, and eventually the hotel became the Umtali Club in 1900, which remains to this day.

Page 47

Other important buildings such as the Government Offices, the Residency, the Drill Hall with all its stables, and the Stock Exchange were in the process of being built at that time. The Goal seems to have had priority, and we find that owing to the importance of forging ahead with the building programme, workmen who were serving goal sentences were allowed out on parole during the day to carry on their work. In the evenings they were obliged to report back, and often could be seen knocking on the goal door seeking admittance.

The Kopje House Hospital was another building of great importance, and it was also started in that: year. In 1897 Old Umtali patients, who were able to be transported, were admitted, and a great many men from the construction of the railway from Beira. It is worth noting that the Odzi Railway Bridge was also being built at that time.

All were proud that such a beautiful site had been chosen for the new town, and the centre for Manicaland. Mountains surrounded a large valley where the little town was springing up. Down the mountain sides ran streams of refreshing water, through ferns and dense forests, streams that when harnessed would supply the town's immediate needs. It is scarcely believable today that the Park river known as Sakubva was once a clear, running stream, and those who had not already dug wells for themselves chose their supplies from either the Park river or the Blacksmith's Spruit, whichever was more convenient. The same old water carts brought from the old township were being used. Others regarded this as only a temporary measure and satisfied themselves with drums on sledges, the sledges being made out of forks from trees, all conveyances being drawn by oxen, mules or donkeys.

Blacksmith Spruit was named after a nearby blacksmith's firm, McIntosh & Falla, who were renowned for the making of wagons, carts etc, and also shoeing horses. The stream itself was known to contain gold for a nugget of immense size was found there,. However, there was no doubt that the area on which Umtali has been built is rich in gold, as quartz containing gold was picked up in its streets at one time. This may account for the finding of numerous stone mortars inthe vicinity. The largest one was found, near, the site of the Club and this one has been placed before the Pioneer Monument in Market' Square.

The aforesaid Park river afterwards became known as Black Water Spruit - a very undeserving name - just because at that time malaria cases developed into blackwater and it was thought that the water from the stream was responsible. To simplify the situation regarding drinking water, the Sanitary Board sank a borehole in the Market Square, and this became the old-time village pump, and was very much in demand.

During this period when the town was in the process of being built,, animals began to object to the seizure of their former habitat by man and seemed determined to oust the intruders. Lions and leopards became a serious menace, and went so far as to kill and eat a donkey in Main Street in front of the newly erected Post Office. Those animals frequently visited the town at night when all was quiet, taking dogs from verandahs, and fowls from the yards, pigs from their sties, and occasionally killing a cow and a calf near a homestead. An alarm aroused the inhabitants one moonlight night. Never before was there such a commotion. An Umtali resident had set a jaw spring

Page 48

trap which he tied by chain to a paraffin tin, A lion or leopard caught his foot in the contraption and went tearing down Main Street terrified, the paraffin tin following and making an unearthly din, and -waking all the inhabitants. They rushed out, uncertain of what was happening, armed to the teeth, only to see the enraged animal roaring and growling as it disappeared down the street.

Every night a toll bell was rung at nine o'clock in the evening, from the Police Station. The Africans without passes to remain out were prosecuted, this being a safeguard to prevent crime, as there were still some lawless characters about after the rebellion.

Before proceeding further, a word about the Stock Exchange and the Tramway Company, two impressive projects which took shape in the early days of Manicaland and are unique in its history.

The Stock Exchange was inaugurated in Old Umtali and in 1895 was encouraged by the optimism resulting from mining activities in the district, A meeting was held at the Royal Hotel with Mr. D.J. Mitchell as President and the assemblage numbering some forty persons. It was agreed that syndicate shares be twenty five pounds, of which five pounds would be called up forthwith. The Committee elected was as follows: .Messrs. Suter, D.J. Mitchell, A. Tulloch, G.B. Mitchell, A.L. Bluech, J.B. Graham and A.L. Lazarus. Again in 1897 we hear of another meeting held in New Umtali when it was stated that the imposing double storey building was nearing completion. This was situated next to Government buildings. It has often been remarked that the Stock Exchange must have been a white elephant. On the contrary, mining in those days was thriving, and some mines in Penhalonga were exceptionally good. Therefore, at this meeting held in the Cecil Hotel, when Mr. Alec Low presided, there were 5,195 shares out of issued capital,of 8,750. Present were Mr. Lazarus, Mr. A.J. Lawley, Dr. Howarth (Director Elect), A.L. Bloech, A. Tulloch and Mr. Alex Fox (Auditor). The Stock Exchange thrived right up to 1924, its final year, when Umtali area alone produced two hundred and ten pounds, twelve shillings. After that the Stock market gradually declined, when it was realised that Umtali was not going to be a second Johannesburg.

Umtali can boast of being the only town in the country that once possessed a Tramway Company and a tramway! When one hears of such ambitious projects taking place before the railway arrived, one is astounded, but cannot help admiring these early settlers for making the most of every opportunity presented to them. Although they may not have achieved great results, these early Rhodesians had resourcefulness and courage. The idea was to lay down a two foot gauge line and for draught purposes use oxen or mules. This would convey material and necessary goods up and down Main Street in trolleys, and a tramcar could be utilized for passengers. When the railway arrived the trolleys would be greatly in demand.

A capital of five thousand pounds was needed, which was immediately forthcoming and vouched for by Charles Goldring (store-keeper), Mr. S. Tulloch (auctioneer), C. Welssenburn (farmer), Alfred W. Suiter (merchant), J.A. Cope-Christie (architect), W.H. Lang (clerk), James Henty Jeffries (mining engineer) and the Lime Company Limited, each subscribing one hundred shares. It was greatly oversubscribed. Provision for a passenger service was made at sixpence a mile. The Sanitary Board did not mind where the line was laid, provided it was properly done, and did not interfere with

Page 49

traffic. The plant was actually landed at Beira in August 1897, but as the railway was not yet completed work on the tramway was not started until July 1901 by Mr. George Hall, the contractor. He carried out the work smoothly and with plenty of labourers, the line was practically completed in a month, from the Railway Station to the top end of the town. The following day after completion, Mr. Hall invited the residents to make the journey over the new track on trolleys, and thus the first passengers were carried on a street tramway in Rhodesia. Ballasting took a couple more weeks and then the line was ready for the official opening. The passenger cars were supplied by Jackson Sharp & Company, United States of America, each nineteen feet long and seating' eighteen passengers, and drawn by two mules. As these cars were too heavy for the track and too slow, passengers preferred to walk. However, on occasions it was put to use when the children found out where it was stationed collecting fares and pretending the tram was moving. Another amusing occasion was when a visiting football team fetched the tram car from where it was stationed and pushed it all the way up Main Street. When they arrived at the Club their thirst got the better of them and they entered for a drink. The tram car was forgotten and remained, stationary just outside the Club for a vary long time. The Sanitary Board considered it was the duty of the Club to return it to its quarters, and the Club put the onus on the Tramway Company. However after about a year of argumentation the tram car was somehow returned.

The line: was a great convenience when the railway arrived. It was a common sight to see a driver urging his oxen to and from the station with two or three heavily ladened trolleys linked together, and occasionally after the oxen had been unhitched the empty, unattended trolleys could be seen tearing down Main Street out of control, until they reached the railway, ,much tv the consternation of the public.

It is interesting to note that the first travelling theatre to visit Umtali in 1904 was the Sass & Nelson Company, using six trolleys to convoy their effects to and from the station and tho Royal Hotel. This was a tremendous thrill for Umtali. The Royal Hotel boasted a fairly large stage, and was made use of on many occasions, especially for childrens plays. However, when the Travelling Company arrived and their intention was to stay a week in Umtali, and put up a new play every night, there was an influx from far and wide, most people booking for the whole week. Such plays as "The Bell of Now York","Merry Widow", etc. with a change of scenes, were much appreciated by all. The town returned to normal after they had gone, and people were left feeling flat and weary after a week of intense excitement and enjoyment.

The tramway succeeded until 1914 when gradually more and more motor lorries appeared on the streets to cart goods, and so the tramway, which was in early years considered a great success, became a liability. Ultimately, in 1919, a prominent townsman, Mr. John Meikle, director and shareholder, remarked, "Great things were expected of the tramway as a dividend paying proposition.- This was true optimism".

And so under adverse conditions the little town of Umtali gradually progressed, from what looked like a cowboy village to a modern town. The hurriedly built temporary buildings were being replaced with more substantial structures. Mr. Engelbrecht was responsible for the first brick machine being imported, and thus he encouraged the building of brick buildings. He was also given

Page 50

permission by the Sanitary Board to lay out his brick-fields on the site which is now known as Riverside area. On one occasion a lion chased a donkey over some freshly made bricks spread on the ground to dry, before being killed. A great many were spoiled in the hunt, but some very good specimens of the lion's spoor remained. A few of these, after being baked, were displayed in the Club.

Engelbrecht's own house was unique, as the walls were built of bottles, which were easy to come by as hotels, etc. were only too pleased to get rid of them. The only drawback to living in a glass house was that stones might be thrown at it, but this did not prevent boys with catapults from shooting at it. Eventually Engelbrecht was obliged to plaster up the walls, which he did, except the gables. The building remains standing today and is still being lived in, which is amazing. Other buildings built at that time are too numerous to describe individually, except for one or two which may be of interest to the reader.

The house known as "Three Steps" in 14th Avenue, originally belonged to Mrs. Lily Fisher, who became well known as "Granny Fisher". She lived on her farm whilst Old Umtali was still in existence. Cecil Rhodes bought her farm which became part of the New Umtali commonage. Within reach of her old homestead she built "Three Steps", the first . modern dwelling house in. Umtali. She afterwards sold it to Mr. T.B. Hulley, the Assistant Magistrate and Native Commissioner in ., Umtali. When he retired, Mr. Johnnie Holland took it over. Like most properties in town, there were no restrictions, you could make as much use of adjoining ground as you wished, and keep horses, mules, donkeys or cattle and graze them on the commonage.

Before concluding,' mention must be made of the homestead known as "Utopia". From Old Umtali, where he lived in huts with his wife and family, Mr. Fairbridge, an experienced surveyor, having a free choice, selected a site for himself on a hill overlooking the town. As he had very little capital, or materials for building purposes he had to improvise with stones, poles and thatch, like his follow settlers. When the stone walls of the house were about three-or four feet-high Mr. Fairbridge realised that the rainy season was approaching so he planted poles all around the basement of the uncompleted walls, to support a thatched roof. Between the supporting poles he hung reed mats! For many years the building remained in this plight and was known as the house with doors but no walls. Mr. Fairbridge was the father of Kingsley Fairbridge. Kingsley had a very hard life as a child and few facilities for education, but he determined to pursue his studios, which he did with the help of the Rev. Roxburgh, the first Church of England clergyman in Umtali. Eventually Kingsley completed his education at Oxford.

In the early stages of his life he, like many others, decided on filling the empty, open spaces with young men who had received a course in agriculture. However, his ideas were too premature. The country was striving for existence and without capital or markets such a visionary venture was bound to fail. It was while Kingsley was at Oxford that a scheme to start his project in Australia took shape, and he was able to put it into practice. It proved to be very successful. A similar scheme was started in Bulawayo during the Second World War and was named Kingsley Fairbridge School, commemorating Kingsley's pioneer achievements.

End of Chapter 7

Click Here To Return to Index

Recompiled, by Eddy Norris, from a copy of the booklet made available by Neill Storey. Thanks Neill.

The recompilation was done for no or intended financial gain but rather to record the memories of Rhodesia.

The family of the author have given permission for ORAFs to load this booklet onto the Internet.
Thanks top the family and special thanks to Heather Curran.

Thanks to
Paul Norris for the ISP sponsorship.
Paul Mroz for the image hosting sponsorship.
Robb Ellis for his assistance.

Should you wish to contact Eddy Norris please mail him orafs11@gmail.com

6: FIRST TREKS INTO MANICALAND

Page 28

CHAPTER 6

FIRST TREKS INTO MANICALAND

It became evident that affairs in Old Umtali were at a standstill. Patience was needed, as much progress could not be expected without railways and roads, and on top of this a great calamity hit the small community. This was the rinderpest. As ox transport was the only means of transport everything seemed to be in abeyance. But before proceeding further let us digress for a short while, and see how Umtali fared in the face of apparent disaster.

The ambition of man to explore is continuous, and one of the earliest groups of settlers arrived in 1891. At that time Rhodes was doing his utmost to encourage people to come to Rhodesia and take up land. One of the first groups consisted of Laurence van der Byl and his party of twenty five young men (Cape Colonists).

They record a difficult journey to Salisbury, and from there resumed their way eastward towards Umtali, their intention being to take up land somewhere in the vicinity of Umtassa's kraal. The reason why they wore not sent further eastward was that uncertainty prevailed as to where the boundary between Portuguese East Africa and British territory would be placed.

So van der Byl started his settlement in the Makoni district, the area now known as Rusape, the town itself having the same name. Temporary huts were built from materials at hand, whilst a search was made for suitable farms where people could settle. The weather conditions added to the general discomfort, and the initial zeal disappeared. Soon after the settlers were down with malaria and blackwater set in. They had never experienced such adverse conditions before. Laurence van der Byl was one of the first to succumb. In 1892, less than a year after arriving, he died at M'gopas. This was too much for the other settlers, and the group broke up and men dispersed.

The reason given for the failure was ignorance and unpreparedness to meet the conditions of a new country, and secondly, the lack of any womenfolk to give stability and permanency. In spite of all this, the little town of Rusape, which developed out of the experiment, has proved that the hardships of these young men were not in vain.

After them came Dunbar Moodie's trek. He certainly had been put through his paces by past experiences and hardships connected with the settlement of a new, unexplored country. As already stated, he escorted Jameson and Doyle when they undertook that hazardous expedition to find Gungunyana, and eventually succeeded in finding him and winning him over to the British. This roused the Portuguese and the demarkation of the boundaries was executed. It was agreedthat all the land around Melsetter known as Gazaland be ceded to the British. Now Noodle, well acquainted with this area, was determined that he and his people would occupy it. His impression was that it surpassed any other agricultural area he had previously seen, with green pastures, rivers, abounding perennial streams, and numerous game of all kinds. The land also seemed very fertile. There were forests with countless large trees suitable for cutting into boards for the structure of the settlers' homes. Bordering all this was the majestic Chimanimani mountain range where beautiful wild flowers abounded, and where birds and animals unknown to other regions were found.

Page 29

Moodie, having taken into consideration all these aspects, and being most impressed, immediately communicated with his friends in South Africa begging them to join forces with him and settle in this land of plenty. Rhodes inspired them further. "Go north, young men, your hinterland lies there."

It was when such promising accounts reached South Africa that the well established farmers were rather suspicious, and averse to venturing into the unknown. They considered 'a bird in the hand was better than two in the bush'. They reckoned it would be a long journey through the lowveld before they obtained their objectives; roads were non-existent, and wild animals, tsetse-fly and malaria were all hazards to be considered. Then on arrival, the high plateau which the settlers were expected to occupy, had no roads, and very little chance of a railway. But these glowing accounts of the life in the eastern part of Rhodesia were very unsettling, for at the back of men's minds was the lure of the unknown, and the love of adventure. Land was there for the asking, and to miss such an opportunity might affect them for the rest of their lives.

Cecil Rhodes realised that it was essential that there should be a buffer state between Manicaland and the Portuguese, so as to resist the menace of the native tribes encouraged by the settlement of the land. At the same time it was determined to choose carefully the intending settlers. If they were to be permanent, they must be accompanied by their wives and families. It would be no mean task, but an ordeal which required endurance and courage, and because of this Rhodes chose George Benjaman Dunbar Moodie, who had already proved himself by working for the Sabi Ophir Gold Mining Company in 1861.

It was in 1891 that Rhodes and Jameson decided that Dunbar Moodie should be encouraged to form the settlement in the Gazaland area, and to grant him seven farms, each about three thousand acres, with an annual rent of seventeen pounds ten shillings for the farms. Moodie was naturally pleased and enthusiastic.

He decided to return to the Free State as soon as he had mapped out the farms. He employed three men and told them during his absence to get on with the job, and build huts on each farm, so sure was he that he would have no difficulty in persuading Free State farmers to take up the land. Moodie's idea was to settle a hundred families in the area and Rhodes approved of the idea 'as it was just what he needed, and asked Moodie to keep in touch with him and visit him in Cape Town. He realised such a big venture would take considerable time to organise.

Dunbar Moodie, on arrival in the Free State, took his uncle Thomas Moodie into his confidence, giving him glowing accounts of the beautiful country which had untold possibilities.

Thomas Moodie's father, James Moodie, represented the Melsetter Clan. His forefathers had lived for generations at Melster in the Orkneys, therefore their estate in Rhodesia was later to be named Melsetter.

In 1892 a small deputation went to interview Rhodes. They thought the farms of three thousand acres too small, and suggested three thousand morgen would be more suitable, and also a reduction in quit-rent to six pounds per annum. To this Rhodes agreed, and sent Jameson a telegram to that effect.

Page 30

However, after Moodie had had several more meetings with his applicants for further aid it was agreed that each person be allowed seventy five pounds for farm equipment etc. but the Company turned this request down. So it seemed that the expedition was doomed to failure! But Moodie, being a determined character and a patriarch, would allow nothing to stand in his way and resolved to accept the responsibility for the trek. In view of the fact that no further assistance was forthcoming many farmers withdrew their names. Moodie was not deterred, and eventually mustered sixty or seventy adults, children, a baby, their grand parents and four servants, including cattle and horses.

He was glad to have Ernest du Plessis (a staunch supporter of Thomas Moodie) who was experienced as a transport rider, and an excellent organiser and also no stranger to Mashonaland. Dunbar Moodie decided to go by boat to Beira, and from there to travel to Salisbury to see Jameson, as it was necessary to supply the trekkers with arms and ammunition. They would be responsible for them in case of attack by hostile African tribes.

In November 1892 the party set out from Fort Victoria into Manicaland. where Dunbar Moodie rejoined them. Previous to this the settlers had had numerous setbacks, which Dr. Olivier has so ably described in his book "Many treks made Rhodesia".

However, in spite of all the discouragement they endured they pressed on to the promised land. Arriving at the summit of a hill they looked down at its steeply descending sides. There seemed no hope of going any further as it was impossible for wagons to make an, progress. So these hardy travellers came to a halt and in desperation called it "Amen Heights"!

Once again, however, their despondency passed, hopes were revived and they refused to be beaten, and what is now the Moodie Pass was surmounted and overcome. It was a task of immense endurance which took four days to accomplish. They had to avoid large granite boulders and trees and to prevent wagons sliding and capsizing the wheels were secured to prevent them revolving. As one wagon at a time was let down, a team of strong men, after attaching ropes to its rear, held on to them with all their might to prevent the vehicle crashing down the hill and becoming a wreck. With all their efforts, strain and endurance all the wagons eventually reached the bottom of that hill and they continued their journey rejoicing. Being a sincere and religious people they thanked God for their deliverance and went on their way with thankful hearts.

A few days afterwards the travellers arrived at the Sabi, and looked upon the majestic river with amazement, its flow having been increased by the recent rains. The party had been notified before that the river was an obstacle to be surmounted, and it was possible that they would never reach the other side. There were quicksands and obscure crossings had to be carefully examined before proceeding. Dunbar Moodie was not a man to take risks. He was most concerned that their attempts to reach the opposite bank should not fail and was seen walking to his wagon with a bundle of flags. Mounting his horse he rode down into the river, expecting any minute to flounder into a quicksand, but he was fortunate. From island to island he went, seeing that the sand under his horse was firm and solid, at the same time erecting flags to indicate a safe route for the wagons to take. Unfortunately, the next morning when he looked around he

Page 31

found all his work undone. The river had risen and his flags were washed away and so he had to repeat the performance. This was no mean task. The sand banks on the opposite side were steep, therefore before proceeding it was necessary to cut a way through them. Eventually all was ready.

The first wagon to leave the river was that of Tom Moodie with his wife sitting by his side as a passenger, tense and worried, not knowing what the future held. However, those who were about to venture across watched their progress anxiously, and regained confidence when the wagon was soen to pull out on the opposite bank. The first four wagons managed successfully but after that, as the vehicles disturbed the sand under thorn, it was necessary to add extra teams of oxen to help them through, fill through the day the shouting and cracking of whips continued, and at four o'clock that afternoon the last wagon was safely pulled through to the opposite bank and there, under a large tree,next morning, the event was celebrated with thanks- giving. A few shots of dynamite were fired off, and to cap the proceedings the only case of liquor was produced. The most difficult crossing of the river was an event worth celebrating.

Throughout the journey there was no excessive drinking. The settlers abided by the rules set down before starting and in no way deviated from them.

Now in Gazaland the boundary was between the Shangaans of Gungunyana and the Mahalakas, the former regarding Gazaland as their territory. Aware that there was bound to be conflict in approaching the border, preparations were made for any eventuality. It was just as well as it came sooner than expected for there were about four hundred indunas advancing on them in battle array. The trekkers stood their ground unflinchingly, and the oncoming Zulus realised that they had a formidable enemy to contend with, so called a halt within a hundred yards or so. They squatted down whilst their captain and two of his indunas went forward for consultation. On arrival the trekkers gathered round and were very annoyed by the leader, a burly heavyweight, who was most abusive, and threatened them by yelling and cursing, displaying his authority, demanding who had given them permission-to enter this country and why were they bringing their wagons and women with them? "This is our country" he shouted. Fortunately Tom Moodie had an interpreter with him who silently looked on and listened. "We must try and straighten things out", Moodie instructed the interpreter, "but this chap really needs taking down a peg or two".

It infuriated Moodie when the boastful captain refused to answer. In no uncertain terms Moodie affirmed that they had no intention of becoming subjects of any African leaders, they intended to remain in tho territory. This further infuriated the leader of the Shangaans. With wild threats he flung himself about describing what would happen to these white strangers if his commands were not obeyed. Tom Moodie stared at him calmly, and then called a party of his men together as if to consult them, but instead he ordered them to close in on the trouble maker and hold him down. The surprise on the culprit's face was almost laughable. He then realised the white men determination.. He had no alternative but to humble himself before them, and respect the stand they made.

Page 32

However, on being released he left without comment. Evidently this incident was not repeated to his own men.

From that day on, after Moodie had assured this leader that he himself 'would be responsible for any misdeeds of his men, there was peace and harmony between opposing forces. The Shangaans even helped Moodie and his men cut a pass over the mountain.

This particular crossing took considerable time and trouble and Ernest du Plessis and Dunbar Moodie with two European volunteers had to go in advance, two days ahead, seeking a suitable way up. Those two volunteers, when contacting the local tribes, had to be very cautious as they were regarded with suspicion because of repeated raids on them by other tribes. On such occasions, unless taken unawares, the locals fled and deserted their kraals.

Dunbar Moodie and Ernest du Plessis happened to come across one of these deserted kraals late one afternoon and as they were tired, hungry and without food, they decided to camp there that night. So they settled down and boiled themselves some coffee. It seemed an answer to prayer when a couple of fowls made their appearance round the hut and asked to be slaughtered! They soon made an end to them and boiled them in an old clay pot. Next morning, well satisfied, they continued their survey work. After a couple of days the men happened to return to the same kraal with their two Shangaan assistants They managed to capture two of the terrified inhabitants. When they realised Moodie was eloquent in the Shangaan language, and was not the head of a raiding party, they soon recovered from their nervousness and ceased trembling. A new hut was provided for sleeping accommodation for Moodie and his companions. Very soon the pathetic members of the kraal returned. The women's faces were now free from fear, but the children shrank away from them with terror. In return for the killing of their fowls the two trekkers presented the owners of the fowls with two cartridge cases, which were greatly appreciated and kept for snuff holders. After this they brought another fowl in exchange for just one more.

This raiding episode is only one example of what was taking place all over Rhodesia in those early days. The local Africans were so intimidated by marauding parties that they were very fearful. Mr. du Plessis stated that he was convinced that the fear of lions and raiding armies were the two important factors which drove the natives to the white man for. protection and security.

In continuing the journey another pass had to be surmounted. At times it was necessary to couple up three spans of oxen to a wagon, with the men pushing in the rear, whilst the women walked, carrying small children.

It seems strange that the very day they reached the summit happened to be Christmas day, 1892. This was considered a good omen in spite of tho fact that they found there was no water, so du Plessis had to return down the mountain side with six donkeys in the dark to the Tanganda river to replenish their empty bags. Much to his disgust, after he had achieved his objective, scrambling through thickets with the risk of encountering lions, he found on his return that a good supply of fresh running water was within two hundred yards of the camp!

Page 33

Having celebrated Christmas the travellers mere obliged to halt for a few days to recuperate from the constant strain and hardship which they had to endure and had been detrimental to the health of the group. Dunbar Moodie was gradually recovering from a bout of malaria, whilst Tom Moodie was down with it.

There was much excitement when they in-spanned-their oxen for: the last time. The fulfilment of their desires at last arrived when they saw before them the green grasslands of Chipinga and Melsetter. The reward which they so richly deserved had materialised and they looked upon it and rejoiced. The land before them surpassed all expectations; the travellers had not been misled by their leaders. The party had crossed the Sabi on the 13th December, taking twenty two days for them to reach their destination. It is remarkable that the trek which took eight months to complete, can now be traversed by car in less than three days!

On arrival Tom Moodie was elected as Sheriff and saw to it that order was observed, and Ernest do Plessis was his deputy. There seems to have been some difficulty in the distribution of farms as the demarkation line between Portuguese East Africa and Rhodesia . had not yet been finalised. Mr. Moolman pegged his farm but Webster went so far to the-east and afterwards found out that he was one of those who had pegged in Portuguese territory.

These were the forerunners of many other treks which' took place later,and will always be remembered in Manicaland history:

Thomas and Cecilia Jocimina Moodie and children Martin, Thomas, Harriet, James, Boyce, Charles, George and Gan.
Sarah Moodie and her husband George Benjamin Dunbar Moodie.
Ernest du Plessis.
Henry Ashput.
Ernest Baden.
Richard Dick; Hulley.
Mr. Knok.
Fred Markham.
Jan Oberholster.
Gustav Stiebel.

The settlers who came after the Moodie trek had equally trying ordeals and must always be remembered in Manicaland history. In 1893 the Moolman-Webster trek took place. Johannes Nicolaas Moolman had his wife with him and his three children and a young man named Hartkopff to assist him, and a Joseph Webster an Englishman who had lived in South Africa for many years, also accompanied them.

Leaving Fort Victoria, owing to the onset cf the Matabele rebellion, the Jan Moolman family linked up with them. Mr. Moolman had received enthusiastic and glowing accounts about the wonderful country of Gazaland, so he saddled his horse and was off to see for himself. On his return he was well satisfied, and considered it a marvellous country, and he and Webster immediately contacted Dr. Jameson who was only too pleased for them to link up with their predecessors and the Moodies, and acquire farms for themselves. This party eventually reached the Moodie farm at Waterfalls, having had a fierce fight with the Matabele on the way, killing about thirty of them.

It was than that the first tragedy befall the settlers. After two months on his farm Mr. Webster went out to shoot lions with an

Page 34

English missionary named Burgin. They were not successful and the lions avoided them. The missionary forgot to unload his gun on return and the next morning they both sat on the verandah cleaning their guns, when Burgin's gun went off and unfortunately shot Mr. Webster in the chest and heart. It appears that Mr. Webster was doomed to failure. When he attempted transport from Malala to Mount Silinda, the track he was obliged to cut was through a thick wooded area full of swamps and infested with tsetse fly. His next attempt at transport was to Beira, which was more disastrous, as he lost every ox he had. Eventually, after having to continue in Portuguese East Africa for some, time under adverse circumstances, Mrs. Webster was granted a farm in Melsetter, named 'The Meadows'. She was a fine and well respected woman, who walked many miles to attend and care for the sick, especially the Moodie family. She was eighty four when her first illness struck her, and she died in Mount Silinda Hospital.

Members of this trek mere Johan Nicolaas and Catherine E.F. Moolman and their children, Jurie, Hendrik and Lettie; Johannes Hartkopff, who found conditions too trying and moved to Salisbury; Piet Lourens and Johannes Bezuidenhout who returned to the Transvaal; Joseph and Sarah Webster and their children John T, William G, Anna, Louisa, Mary and Alice; Johannes Bezuiddnhcut; John Ballantyne; Jakens and Lecorno.

In 1894 the Samuel Gifford trek took place. It numbered thirty four people with ten wagons. Right from the beginning troubles started even before reaching the Rhodesian border. Most of their oxen died owing to bush ticks and so had to be replaced with donkeys and when the servants heard that the Matabele were on the war-path, they refused to go any further. However, it seems that the British South Africa Company come to their rescue and were able to supply, oxen. These oxen, evidently commandeered from the Matabele, were very acceptable and so the donkeys were replaced. There were additional delays as these oxen had to be trained. In the process this caused many headaches owing to breakages of chains, yokes and skeys.

After reaching Fort Victoria the party followed the tracks of their predecessors, the Moodies and Webster's, and eventually arrived at the Moodie farm in September 1896, when they took a well-earned rest, which they justly deserved, as they had had a very gruelling time and some terrifying experiences.

Unlike the previous trekkers they were not entirely satisfied with their new environment. It may have been that the best farms had already been pegged. This group was obliged to go further afield and owing to this made a big error by pegging their farms in Portuguese territory. It was some years after this that they realised their mistake, and were very unhappy that they had to return to Manicaland. The farms they preferred were new occupied so they had to take what they could get. The following were members of this party:

Alfred Samuel and Emma Geauz Gifford and their children Prudence, Mary, Edith Maud, Alice, Johann, Margaret Ann;Johann and Sarah Herbst and children Elizabeth, Johann, and Molly;
Clifford and Molly Connell and children; Daniel Nell, his wife and three children; T. van der Walt and two children; Frank Connel:

Page 35

E. Dorking; Emil and Katrina Grootwahl; Michael Herbst; Mr. Hulett; J. Pienaar; Angus Rubridgo; John Walker Scott; William Edward Scott; R, Sauer; S. Swanepoel and F. Webster.

Again in 1894 a trek well worth recording as it was the largest agricultural one to enter Rhodesia, was conducted by Marthinus Jacobus Martin of Naudelust, Fouriesburg in the Orange Free State.

Martin, when a Member of Parliament, was attracted by an advertisement which stated that three thousand morgen farms near Macequece were available and anyone interested was to contact the Administrator immediately. A much delayed reply stated that the Mozambique Company would undertake guides and carriers and people should be given every assistance when they arrived in Beira. The fact was emphasised that it was a beautiful piece of land north of Massi-Kessi, hilly country well supplied with water, and suitable for man and beast. A number of meetings were arranged with Mr. Martin and it was agreed that four men be selected to undertake the expedition. They were Marthinus J. Martin, Michel A. Heyns, Casper Badenhorst and Cornelius J. du Preez.

On arrival at Beira the group were well received and according to arrangements, the Governor Machado supplied guides, and gave them permission to visit Gazaland. They travelled by the usual route taken by many settlers at that time to Rhodesia from Beira, by paddle-boat along the Pungwe to Fontesville, and from there by narrow gauge railway to Chimoyo and Macequece.

Here they found most of the ground unsuitable and low-lying, and being afraid of malaria, moved on as far as a farm known as 'Clifton'. From here there was a magnificent view of undulating hills and.mountains, and the party became more enthusiastic. This was just what they were seeking. Some Africans informed them that there was a European settlement a few days journey onward so they decided to investigate.

Across Buffelsnek and Lemonkop the party travelled, and at Cecilton they arranged to part company. Badenhorst and Heyns continued search for the Europeans but Martin and du Preez wanted, to see more of the country and travelled in an easterly direction towards Nyahoda river and the Chimanimani mountains. It was a great surprise to both couples when, after a short period, they stumbled across each other again! Then they were staggered after a further journey to find themselves at the Moodie's farm 'Waterfalls".

You can imagine the great welcome they received, especially as Tom Moodie was a brother-in-law of Badenhorst, and a great friend of du Preez, Dunbar Moodie, being the representative of the British South Africa Company, seized this opportunity of taking the party round, showing them all he could. By the end of ten days' inspection members of this trek wore convinced that this was the country for them. Heyns went so far as to look at farms along the Busi river. The next meeting place was Wolwehoek (Rich lands) where the rest decided to apply for permission to settle along the range of mountains known as Chimanimani. This name was given to the gorge or peak and the range itself was known as Mawhengi, forming the boundary between Portuguese and British territory.

When Martin returned to the Free State he was still very enthusiastic, although the other three wished to delay operations for a while, as it was uncertain whether Gazaland was in Portuguese

Page 36

East Africa or Manicaland. Partly because of this Martin went to visit Rhodes, who was than in Kimberley. Rhodes was in full agreement with the proposal and welcomed the Afrikaans trekkers to Rhodesia, emphasising the fact that it was necessary for them to take their wives and children with them, as good family units produced a moral influence in any country. Rhodes promised that all the rights of the Afrikaans settlers, including their language, would be respected. There would be nothing to fear during his lifetime. Also, there would be no purchase price for farms, merely the usual quit-rent of one pound per one thousand acres, and it was hoped that they would be successful and strong supporters of the Eastern Border. Mr. Martin, being well satisfied, then resigned from Parliament.

Ho was a staunch member of the Dutch Reformed Church, which was established in Rhodesia the following year, and has served the community so well in times of trouble and tribulation. The Afrikaarers being a devout people, always put their religion first and every year, if there was no church in the district, hold their Nachtmaal in some central position where all assembled to renew their homage to God and to thank him for all His gracious gifts and to seek His protection. This Nachtmaal as a rule lasted three or four days. It was primarily a time of prayer and thanksgiving, and afterwards renewal of old friendships and associations.

Before making decisions Mr. Martin contacted the great preacher, Dr. Andrew Murray, who was very interested in the project and promised his every assistance.

It was on the 19th April 1894 that the big trek started and one hundred and four members moved slowly out of Fouriesburg in new wagons. Included were four Zulus, six Hottentots (two women) and ten house servants, and other families joined them en route.

On arrival at the Limpopo the crossing of this river took a week. Many adventures, too numerous to record here, took place on the way. For instance, Hardy got lost whilst out hunting and this caused a great commotion amongst the party. That night large flares were made and lamps hung on trees and shots fired, but without effect. The next morning many men went on horseback in search of him and arrived back late in the afternoon. Fortunately one party who came back late that night had found him utterly exhausted. He had given up all hope of ever seeing his friends again. However, having read about van der Riet's experiences Hardy was sensible enough to remain in one spot and sleep in a tree.

Another sad incident took place. One of the children, about three years old, disappeared one day when the children were playing a little distance from the wagon. When they started to look for the child he was gone. For days a frantic search took place, but sadly with no result, only a small shoe being found. It was a tremendous wrench to the parents when they had to move without their child, However, in spite of all these frustrations and hardships, the trek had its lighter aspects which I shall deal with later.

Jan Gysbert, who was very keen on joining the trek, died suddenly just before departure. The widow was determined to fill her husband's place so she and her whole family joined the party. One of her daughters, a very attractive young girl, caused a commotion amongst the young men in their efforts to gain her affections, and whenever an opportunity occurred they were seen at the wagon like bees round

Page 37

a honey pot. However, after some consideration the young woman fell in love with a fir., Heyns, much to the disappointment of the other ardent suitors. The engagement ended with a wedding ceremony under some large spreading trees and was conducted by the Rev. A.A. Louw, who afterwards started the Dutch Reformed' Church Mission Station at Morgenster, near Great Zimbabwe.

When the party arrived at the Sabi river at the entry to Manicaland, they were surprised by its width, in some places over a thousand yards wide and in others almost a mile. As usual the travellers had great difficulty in crossing the river. Mr. Olwage thought he would be clover and put all his fowls in a bag on top of the wagon, to protect them from being submerged in the deep water, but when opening them up on reaching the other side, he found they had been suffocated. Another great loss was all the salt which was a most important factor in a new country, especially in preserving meat. There again, when the other side was reached the water had flooded the bed of the wagon, and the salt dissolved rapidly.

Having crossed the Sabi river with only a few minor accidents, the party travelled more hopefully; they were now approaching the promised land and their future home. They travelled along Mount Rudd to Goke to the Tanganda river and the remarkable or notorious Three Span Burg, it's appropriate name being Jacob's Ladder,. Although the travellers had heard a great deal about this obstacle they had never taken it very seriously. Now they were confronted with this hazard.

The mountain road was a short pull but- very steep and had been made by the first Noodle party in 1892. It was full of rocks and stones, and so many spans of oxen had to be hooked on to the wagon that by the time the first oxen were nearing the summit, the wagon was only a quarter of the way up!

On the 14th October, 1894 the trek reached Buffelsnek where they stopped, as Martin's ambition was to establish a memorial to the honour of God who had so wonderfully guided and. helped them. This was the ideal spot, so they erected a memorial of stones as a sign of their thankfulness for their safe arrival on the border of the habitable land of Gazaland and for His faithful guidance and care of the trek, for "Truly the Lord had helped and taken care of us on this long, dangerous and exhausting journey", wrote Martin. Two days later, on the 16th October, the day was dedicated to Thanks-giving, The memorial was called Ebenezer, and the members of the party decided that once every fifty years as from 1899 they would gather on the same spot and celebrate the day to commemorate God's wonderful guidance and care which they had received. And so the trek which left the Free State in April arrived at their destination on the 14th October, a matter of seven months, a feat which can be accomplished today by car on macadamised roads in several days.

However, after arriving at Waterfall Farm, the trekkers had to proceed to the farms they had chosen, surmounting large mountains, north of Sterkstroom and Lusita. There was a journey down the Lusitu Valley and up again to the farm 'Witkyk'. (Here, unfortunately, the trekkers lost one of their respected and God-fearing women, Mrs. Scholtz.) After spending many days discovering a way over the Lusitu Mountains, a police officer, Joe Nesbitt, made his appearance with a letter from Dunbar Moodie, stating that it was most necessary

Page 38

that all the men returned with their rifles and ammunition, because the Portuguese had sent an army to take over Gazaland. After, leaving a few elderly men to take charge of the women and children, the men took their departure. Eight days after this they were back again, hungry, tired and thirsty, drenched to the skin as the heavy rains were on. The whole affair had been a false alarm, much to their disgust. At last, three days after this, their goal was reached. On arrival they were full of praise for the leadership of Martinus Martin, and clubbed together, handing him a memorandum stating their appreciation for all that he had done for thorn, so ably assisting them to their future home in Gazaland.

Following this we record the names of the Martin Trek:

Martinus Jacobus and Rusina Elizabeth Martin and their son Johannes Lodewikus; Johannes Hendrik Christoffel and Roesa Huigh Kok and children Jocoba M, Johanna Cornelia, Gertruida, Rosina Elizabeth, Barbara, Johan Andries and Stephanie Deborah; George Frederick and Dirkie Elizabeth Heyns and children Engela J. Maria M, Johan A, Cornelius, George F and Dirkie Elizabeth; Abraham Daniel and Dirkie Jocoba Olwage and children Susanna Maria, Christian Dudfif, Joseph Daniel, Abraham Daniel.and Jasper; Petronella Susana du Preez (Widow) and children Petronella Susana, Mrs. Jan Gysbert, Rosina Elizabeth, Jean Charles Frederick, Hester Elizabeth, Anton Michael, Helyard Petrus, Johanna Christina and Cornelia; Rudolph and Martha van Rooyen (the'late Mrs. Hefer) and children Tommie and Miriam; Peter Edmund and Christina Steyn and children Johannes Peter, Edward and Jacoba; Jan Dirk and Rozena Elizabeth Heyns and children Jan Dirk, Rosina Elizabeth, Christina and Ignatius; Jan and Maria Scholtz and child Aletta; Jacob and Gertruida Herselman and children Frederick, Jan, Gertruida, Magdalena and Jacob; Salmon and Ann Scholtz and children Jan Botes, Anna Maria, Hendrik, Wynand Willem, Cathrina and Frederick Johannes; Petrus Stephanus and Luisa Francina Martin and children Johannes, Ludewekus, Pieter Stephanus, Marthinus Jacobus and Debora; Tobias and Mirian van. dor .Riot and children Edward.and Willem; Jan and Johanna vdin Zyl and children Johannes Willem, Pieter, Dawid, Johanna, Elizabeth arid Adrian; James Tilbury and Catherine Gesina English; Phillipus Brankin; Antonio Ferreira; Edward Hardy; Adriaan Hefer; John Andries Heyns;. Koos Marks; Pieter Rootenbach; Jan Roos; Louis Schutte;:Frederick Smith; Frederick van Eeden; Jobert van Heerden; Therenls van Schalkwyk; Joe Adendorf van Schalkwyk.

Mr. Ernest du Plessis, who has been previously mentioned in the Moodie Trek, after pegging his farm 'Clearwater, harnessed his span of oxen and returned to the Free State determined to fetch his own trek. The result was that after giving a glowing account of what was taking place in Gazaland, he persuaded many families to return with him, and made the journey in about four months. After settling them all, he decided to go back once more and fetch his bride. A pole and dagga home, he reckoned, was not good enough for her, so it seems that he had built a house for her, the first to be constructed with burnt bricks.

Mr. du Plessis returned on foot to Chimora and from there to Beira and by boat. He married Magdalena Maritz, daughter of Gerrit Maritz, descendant of the Great Trek leader. Pleased with himself and happily married, full of enthusiasm to get back to his beloved Gazaland, he led a third party safely back to his farm where his new house awaited his bride.

Page 39

Ernest du Plessis (1894):
Hendrik and Johanna du Plessis and children Gertruida, Christina,
Hendrik, Frans, Jan, Alette; Dirk du Plessis; Jan Human; Abraham Spies; Hans Talgaard.

Members of the du Plessis Trek 1895:
Ernest and Magdalena du Plessis? Louw and Deborah Kleyn;
Diederik and Lenie Englebrecht and child Jan; Frikkie Stopforth with his wife and children; Hendrik Pikster with his wife and children; Andries Breytenbach.

Ernest Kruger's was the second last Pioneer Trek to Gazaland. In the early days when the Mashonaland expedition left he started transport riding and made good money. The only incident recorded was when Mr. Longden, the Magistrate at Melsetter, tried to prevent him from delivering an order for drinks, to Bulawayo! He continued transport riding until 1895, and as competition then became too much for him, decided to move into Rhodesia. Ho joined Hendrik Bekker, who had been in the transport business since 1890. ' It is interesting to note that his wife accompanied him on one of his trips to Salisbury in 1890, and in 1891 his son Jan was born in Salisbury. This might well have been the first baby to be born in the capital. Mr. Bekker states that he got as much as seven pounds ten shillings per hundred pound weight for the goods he delivered, and at times there were as many as ninety wagons lined up in Salisbury. He lost most of his oxen in Salisbury through lung sickness, but as there was a big demand for timber all over Rhodesia at the time, he signed a contract to saw and deliver wood to the British South Africa Company at eighty pounds a week. He had a flourishing mill on the banks Of the Hunyani and Bekker also stated that many transport riders, having completed a good contract, sold their wagons and returned to .South Africa by coach. In this way Bekker managed to buy a wagon and team of oxen for two hundred pounds.

Only two families joined him, and at Fort Victoria a Mr. Pretorius persuaded him to go to Gazaland. They joined parties and followed the Moodie Trek as far as Waterfalls. There they contacted the Commandant at Mazzorezi, who promised them one hundred farms if they brought settlers to occupy, them.

The son-in-law of Pretorius, Lucas Laubacher, lost his way whilst out hunting only to be found fatally ill with malaria, and being carried on a zebra skin by Africans. The family returned to South Africa where Mr. Pretorius died, and Bekker failed to accomplish his great desire of persuading his hundred people to settle in Portuguese East Africa. However, Rhodes persuaded him that it would be more desirable if they went to Melsetter. Rhodes said many people in England and South Africa seemed to think that they would never be able to create a white man's country in. Rhodesia. He was anxious to show the world that this was not so, the possibilities in Rhodesia were great. Rhodes required men who knew something about farming to make a start in Gazaland, and prove that agriculture in itself would be a great asset to, the country. When Mr. Kruger pointed out to him that Gazaland was virtually cut off from other parts of Rhodesia, and that other areas such as south of Bulawayo were more favourable, and would develop rapidly, he assured them that whatever progress might take place in other areas he would see to it that the same privileges were granted to the Melsetter part of the country. Considering this, Ernest Kruger replied that he would change his

Page 40

course, but when he arrived in Gazaland Dunbar Moodie was suspicious, because at that time trouble was brewing between President Kruger and the British, and he had the same name. However,, after making the excuse that there were no farms available, he advised Kruger to return to the Transvaal. The party therefore decided, except Bezuidenhout and du Preez, to go to Massorezi, but before they were able to select farms, all except Bekker went down with malaria. On top of this rinderpest broke out, therefore their intentions to return to South Africa were delayed. Instead, the party struggled back to Melsetter and there Kruger again met Mr. Longden and because of the argument a year before about transporting liquor, Longden was not ready to help him, so he was unable to obtain a farm. Eventually Mr. Labuschagne allowed them to occupy his farm 'Avontuur', and because they had run out of ammunition,. clothing and food (after having had such a troubled existence) Mr. Labuschagne also gave them a pair of axon to get to the farm. The group was now down to bedrock and their only remaining ox they sold for about eighty pounds which was all they possessed. But a year or two later this party of settlers obtained their own farm where they remained and were satisfied.

Mr. Bekker, having no money to start farming, accepted a contract to cut a road to Beira and all went well until one day he suddenly took ill, collapsed and died.

This broke the spirit of this that Portuguese East Africa was not for them and returned to Melsetter. Here they were given hospitality by de Beer who asked them to remain on his farm 'Middelstroom'.

The two treks wore the most unfortunate of all the pioneer efforts to Gazaland. One feels that they had earned fairer treatment. However, they proved themselves worthy of their race, The determination and courage of all those men and women should always, be remembered and revered in .the history of Manicaland.

Members of the Kruger - Bekker Trek (1895) :

Hennie and Christie Bekker and children Koot, Annie, Hendrick, Soon, Jozua, David Piet, Jan, Maria and Chrissie; Wynand and Durie Bezuidenhout and their children Wynand, Klasie, Hans, Barend, Jan, Cornelius, Johanna Anie and Dore; Fanie and Lea du Preez and children Salaman and Johanna,; Ernest Kruger with their children Petrus, Maria, Hans and Wynand; Willem and Nellie Smit and their children Nik, Gert, Soon, Lettie and Johanna.

The third big Trek was conducted by Messrs. Henry and Steyn in 1895. After news that farms were available in Rhodesia for only thirty pounds each, a. committee was formed to proceed to Manicaland to inspect and report back on their findings. Several farmers were interested and prepared to venture, if satisfied. The committee consisted of John Henry and Johannes F. Steyn. After sailing to Beira in 1894 the party travelled the usual way by Pungwe river, then by train to the seventy five mile peg. After this they proceeded on foot, or made use of wagons as far as Chimoyo and the Ruwui river.The first night out the travellers lost themselves in the mist, and after wandering aimlessly for several days, stumbled on Mr. Cripps' farm near Umtali. He was able to give them further instructions on how to reach Moodie's farm, and also provided them with an African guide.

Page 41

Eventually after being fed by Africans at different kraals, the party arrived at Waterfalls - owned by Dunbar Moodie. He advised them to move to the extreme south.. They thought, however, thought it would be better to go north and get nearer to the proposed railway line.

Henry and Steyn wished to settle past the Martin's area towards Umvumvumu valley. There they were granted farms on payment of thirty pounds a piece and were made responsible for the pegging of their boundaries for these properties.

The party, being well satisfied, returned to the Free State to spread the good news and a trek was immediately organised. It seem that having profited by the experiences of previous trekkers, they decided to take with them such items as grass seed, fruit, seeds, tress and domestic animals, five thousand cattle and about seven hundred and fifty sheep etc., also clothing and food for six months, There were sixteen wagons and one hundred and four people concerned, divided into two sections led by Mr. Henry and nr. J.G. Steyn, the latter acting as general secretary.

On their journey Thomas Ferreira, whilst out shooting, bagged Kudu and then lost himself. He relates how one evening he found the spot where he left the wagon. During the night he heard a shot. Someone had been sent out along the road to look for him. What a relief!

After the horses, being stricken with horse sickness which killed most of them off, and lions having claimed a few of those that were left, the trek arrived at Fort Victoria, the supply depot for all those who travelled to and from South Africa. From there the party trekked on to the Sabi.

Another incident occurred when Cornelius Marais wagon broke down. A few men offered to.stay behind and do repairs. Whilst they away collecting an axle from a deserted wagon skeleton, Marais tried to jack up the wagon. It toppled over and pinned him to the ground. He and his wife struggled to free his legs. He was very nearly dying in agony, when a native appeared and with his help release was effected.

There were the usual difficulties when crossing the Sabi after passing the Ebenezer memorial of the Martin trek. These trekkers arrived at the Moodie settlement towards the end of October. After this a few of the settlers went on to peg their farms, and found that there was not sufficient land available for them all, so others went northward into an unknown uncharted area. Here the mountains were formidable. Two spans of oxen were required to ascend the steep gradients. On one occasion the chain attached to the wagon broke; the vehicle then ran back out of control and landed at the bottom, destroying all Mr. Hendrik Steyn's furniture! A similar mishap took place with Mr. Harm Coetzer's wagon later on, whilst travelling to Moodiesnek, on the road made by Mr. Moodie, to Umtali. After this, to safeguard wagons from breaking away whilst climbing steep gradients a big wooden block or pole was dragged along at the back of wagons.If by chance the wagon broke away and moved backwards, the wheels contacted the obstruction and immediately came to a halt. This method was frequently used whilst traversing Christmas Pass by wagon in the old days.

Page 42

Members of the Henry - Steyn Trek:

John and Emily Henry and children Tom, Freddie, Christian, Lucas and Maria; Johannes and Annie Steyn and children Martha, Herculina, Johannes and Anna; Pieter and Engela Steyn and children Johannes and Annie; Hendrik and'Christina Steyn and child Aletta; Hendrik and Sannie Steyn and children Cornelius and Sannie; P. Willem and Cornelia Steyn'and children Antonie, Hendrik, Stephanus, Paul, Susanna, Anna, Cornelia, Johannes and Pieter; Christoffel and Aletta Steyn; Wentzel and Johanna Coetzer and children Johannes, Wentze, Johanna, Annie, Piet, Martha and Willem; Hara and Johanna Coetzer and children Hendrik, Susanna,.. Jan, Piet and Lettie; Thomas and Maria Ferreira and children Willem, Maria, Jan, Thomas, Catharine and Louis; Johannes and Annie Kloppers and, children Martha, Aletta, Annie, Christoffol, Willem and Johannes Schalk; Stephanus and Annie Lombard and children Annie, Stephanus and Barend; Cornelius and Catharina Marais and children Annie, Barend, Catharina and Stephina; Willem and Hessie Prinsloo and children Willemina, Hana and Willem Frelk; E. Coetzer; Ignatius dePreez; Jaap Hauptfleisch; Daniel van der Zandt.

End of Chapter 6

Click Here To Return to Index

Recompiled, by Eddy Norris, from a copy of the booklet made available by Neill Storey. Thanks Neill.

The recompilation was done for no or intended financial gain but rather to record the memories of Rhodesia.

The family of the author have given permission for ORAFs to load this booklet onto the Internet.
Thanks top the family and special thanks to Heather Curran.

Thanks to
Paul Norris for the ISP sponsorship.
Paul Mroz for the image hosting sponsorship.
Robb Ellis for his assistance.

Should you wish to contact Eddy Norris please mail him orafs11@gmail.com